I've just arrived yesterday to Nicosia, Cyprus to work with UNDP-ACT as a facilitator for the Power of One conference (www.pof1.org). More on that later, but below are some initial observations.
On the way across into the Turkish side of the island today we had to show passports and passed beneath a giant sign that read "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus FOREVER." (Capitalization in original).
Yesterday on the ride in form the airport (on the Greek side) there was a billboard that read "Turkish settlers get out of Cyprus!"
No signs or other writing on the Greek side is in Turkish and vice versa. From what I can tell, the communities are completely separate with the small exception of the "green zone" where they have set up "bi-communal" meeting spaces, like the Cyprus Community Mediation Center, and a cafe where both communities can meet.
Anyone with a passport can cross over into either side, so it's not an actual military border and I saw many people crossing today including what looked to be a little old grandmother with a bundle on her back as well as a young hip couple who seemed to be out for a shopping spree. It's not clear to me how much of the population crosses back and forth but I hear it's mixed, with some people thinking nothing of it and others who would never consider making the cross over.
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